Frequently Asked Questions

Aluminum docks offer numerous benefits that make them an excellent choice for all your waterfront activities. They are lightweight, which makes them easy to handle and transport, yet they are also exceptionally strong, ensuring long-lasting durability. Additionally, aluminum decks are known for their corrosion resistance, making them a low-maintenance solution for those seeking reliability and practicality.

Choosing the right dock will depend on a wide variety of factors, including water depth, shoreline conditions, as well as personal preferences and intended use. For enhanced stability in rougher conditions, truss docks are recommended. For highly customizable configurations, frame docks can provide you with enhanced versatility. For areas with fluctuating water levels, floating docks offer unmatched adaptability and practicality.

A frequently used term for a dock with legs that rests on the lake or river bottom. However, Fendock does not actually use pipes as a construction material. Our docks are crafted from high-quality aluminum extrusions that are designed specifically for strength, durability and longevity. This offers superior resistance to wear and corrosion than other types of decks, providing you with the reliability you need for constant waterfront use.

No. The Fendock is designed to be easy to remove from the water in the fall. If it is left in, the ice will damage it. In the fall, the decking (which is made in sections that are easy to remove) is taken off the dock leaving an aluminum shell. This is very light and easy to remove from the water. If the optional "wheel kit" is used removal is easier because the dock is "wheeled" in and out of the water.

It is generally recommended that floating docks be removed from the water for winter to prevent damage from ice. However, there are circumstances where damage from ice is less likely. If the floating dock is in a quiet bay with very little water current and ice flow, there is less risk of ice damage. However, if the floating dock is connected to a structure on shore (a permanent deck or break water wall) it should be disconnected for the winter; shifting ice can cause any permanent attachments to shear. Snow loads will want to create a downward pressure on the dock, and if the dock is unable to move, because of surrounding ice, there could be damage to it, or to the permanent structure. Bubblers can help to keep ice from forming around a dock in the winter. However you still need to be in an area where there is no ice flow in the spring. Storing your floating dock in a quiet bay where there is no ice flow in the spring is generally considered a "safe" practice. However there is always an element of risk.

Yes. When you have a soft, mucky bottom the legs will sink into the muck. This will create a suction on the leg and baseplate, which actually can help to stabilize your dock. This does make removal of the dock more difficult. We have found that after removing the decking, a slow and steady vertical pull is the best solution to release the suction on each leg. In extremely mucky areas people will sometimes sink a large patio stone in the place where the dock is going to sit. A patio stone has a larger surface area than our 9" x 9" base plate and won't sink as far into the muck. The leg and baseplate won't sink as far with a solid footing underneath.

Yes. The base plate of the Fendock is attached using a bolt. This allows the base plate to be able to pivot and conform to the contour of the bottom of the lake or river. If the rocks are very large and the leg needs to rest between two of these large rocks, the base plate can be removed.

The maximum recommended water depth for a stationary pipe dock is 6 ½ feet. With our standard packages, the dock comes with two 4 ft. legs for the shallow end and two 8 ft. legs for the deep end. We also carry an optional 10 ft. leg which would allow you to go up to a maximum water depth of 8 ½ ft. In water this deep, two "deep-water braces" may be required.

Yes, a "deep-water brace" used at the deep end of the dock will greatly reduce any wobble you may have. A deep-water brace is recommended in water depths over 3 ft. This brace is made from a heavy gauge aluminum extrusion. It is a telescopic pole with one end is attached at the bottom of a leg. The pole extends across the dock to the other side and attaches to the bottom of the opposing truss system. Once the height of your legs has been adjusted to the correct height, the telescopic brace has a locking lever which you then tighten so that the pole can no longer slide, making it a fixed brace. There are a few other things to check as well: -Do you have 4 sets of cross braces and are they all tightened? (2 sets should be at the same location as legs.) -Do you have one set of flat horizontal cross braces, and has it been tightened? -Are the leg retainer bolts fully tightened? -Do you have "snuggers" on your leg retainers to remove any movement of the leg in the holder, and have the "snuggers" been tightened? -Has the decking been made correctly with 2x6 lumber (to fit snuggly inside the rail, or if the decking is on top of the rail the stringers underneath should be sitting snuggling in the rail). All of these things will also help take movement out of the dock.

Yes, you can keep adding dock sections in 8, 16, or 24 foot increments until you reach your desired length. You will need one set of 4 ¼" dock connectors for each length of dock you add. With our new "Modular Dock System" you can make any truss length you want (any multiple of 8 feet), and just add the necessary number of leg assemblies. This enables you to have one long truss, but you will require room on shore when you remove it.

We now have available a new side-rail bumper which is 6" wide by 48" long and extends about 4" from the side rail (which is approximately the same distance the leg assembly extends from the truss). They are sold in sets of two (2) so you can mount them both end for end along the top rail, or one on the top and one on the bottom rail, or one on one side and one on the other side of the dock. You will need to drill a few extra holes on the side rail to bolt this bumper on. If you do not want a horizontal bumper, you can still purchase individual leg retainers with bumpers to mount at intervals between your dock legs. This gives you 15" vertical bumpers along the side truss to protect both boat and dock.

Under usual circumstances it is not recommended to attach a floating dock to a stationary dock. A floating dock is usually wider and heavier than a stationary dock (in order to have as much stability as possible). The larger and heavier floating dock moves with the water, while the lighter stationary dock (lighter, so that it is easy to remove in the fall) cannot, and this is usually why damage occurs. It is possible to have a floating dock at the end of a stationary dock as long as the two are not connected. A ramp can be put between the two for access (as long as it is not fixed), the floater has to be well anchored, and as water levels go up and down the chains on the floater need to be adjusted. That being said, in some circumstances we have seen floaters attached to stationary docks. In these cases, the docks are usually situated where there is very little fluctuation in water depth, and very little water movement (currents or wave motion).

No, composite decking is not strong enough for use on the Fendock. It will bow in the middle running the risk of it falling through the rails. There are two recommended decking materials. We recommend cedar decking panels made from 2 x 6 cedar (instructions to make the decking panels come with every dock, and are also available online), or aluminum decking panels which come pre-assembled and are available in two finishes (mill finish, or anodized, in light bronze or black).

No, aluminum decking is not lighter than cedar, it is actually just a little heavier. Aluminum decking is lighter than pressure-treated wood. However pressure-treated wood is no longer recommended as a decking material. This is because the new chemicals in pressure-treated wood react with aluminum, and because it is not environmentally friendly around waterways. If pressure-treated wood is to be used, there should be a barrier between the aluminum and the wood.

Aluminum decking does not retain heat from the sun. Due to its hollow extrusion, aluminum allows heat to dissipate more quickly, preventing temperatures from rising rapidly and providing you with more comfort during hot summer days. Generally more effective at managing temperatures than their wood counterparts, aluminum decks are the recommended choice for those seeking comfort, practicality and enhanced resistance.

There are several advantages to having a bolted system. Individual parts can be replaced without having to replace the entire structure. Damaged parts can be replaced just by removing the bolts, putting the new part on and replacing the bolts. Another advantage is that bolted systems have greater flexibility, allowing them to twist and contort over under water obstacles that may hinder rolling the dock into the water.

The Fendock leg is a 2" diameter aluminum tube. It has holes drilled in it every 5". The leg sits in a leg retainer which is attached to the docks. This allows the dock to be adjusted in height by 1" intervals. The leg is held in position with a 3/8" stainless steel pin which passes through the leg retainer and the leg, creating a "positive pin" position. With this type of system, the leg can never slip as it can with a set-screw leg system.

No. Once the new "modular dock" has been assembled, it is not meant to come apart. The couplers and bolts that attach the 8-foot sections are engineered to create a permanent connection. The modular dock system was established to make it easier for you to transport the dock into your cottage. Once it is assembled the side truss is meant to stay intact.

Yes. That is another advantage of the new modular dock system. You can virtually make any length of dock you want (in 8-foot sections). Our standard 24-foot dock comes with four legs. When you make a longer dock using the new modular system, you will require more leg assemblies. The distances between any two sets of legs should be no more than 16 feet.